Skinopaedia

 

 

A

Aloe Vera
Aloe Vera is particularly helpful for dry and sensitive skin that benefits from the gel produced by this versatile liliaceous plant. In addition to its capability of providing the skin with humidity, of smoothing and strengthening its texture, the gel serves to calm and cool the skin, and it has an analgetic and soothing effect. It is for these reasons that Aloe Vera is added to many skincare products as an additional beneficial agent
.


 

Almond Oil
A classic product among cosmetic oils; it was already used in ancient times.
Almond oil contains a high percentage of unsaturated fatty acids (oleic acid and linoleic acid); it is extracted from almonds by cold-pressing them.
Almond oil is a valuable care product that cares for the natural greasing of the skin. It also provides valuable humidity and has a smoothing effect; it prevents tension of the skin surface and will convey a soft feeling.

 


Anti-Irritation-Complex
Is a special skin-soothing complex of restructuring Cotton Seed Oil (s. Cotton Seed Oil), skin-soothing panthenol (s. Panthenol) and rich shea butter (s. Shea Butter). This particular combination has a calming effect on stressed skin and gives it back its natural elasticity.



Aqua CacteenTM 
Aqua Cactaceae (cactus extract) is regarded as the new generation of Aloe Vera (s. Aloe Vera). Enhanced with minerals such as calcium, magnesium, sodium and vitamins, it protects and soothes irritated skin and strengthens the natural barrier and immune function of the skin.

 


B

Bisabolol
Both as a natural component of chamomile and also as a synthetic product, Bisabolol will act as a disinfectant; it has a regenerating and soothing effect. Above all it is used for the care of sensitive or stressed skin. 

 


Body Lotion
Body Lotions are liquid emulsions.
There are two kinds of lotions: One of them is rich and has a greasing effect, it is composed of water-in-oil formulations. The other is a lighter lotion providing humidity, and it is based on an oil-in-water formulation (as e.g. Creme 21 Body Lotion). There are many valuable additives to complement the nurturing effect of Body Lotions.


 

C

 

Cashmere Extract
Cashmere extract is a mixture of keratin proteins from natural cashmere wool. The composition is very similar to human hair and skin. Keratins play a central role for the strength and resilience of skin and hair. 

 

Complexion
The complexion reveals a lot of information regarding the state and consistence of the skin. Above all, a fresh and healthy complexion is based on skin sufficiently supplied with blood.

The tinge of the skin is determined through the portion of pigments in the skin, the so-called melanins. The quantity and production of pigments depend on genetic factors, and they will differ from person to person.
 

 

Cotton-Seed-Oil
Nutrient-rich cotton-seed-oil promotes cell regeneration. The skin is revitalized.

 


Cream
Creams are emulsions (water-in-oil- or oil-in-water-emulsions), which consist of oily and watery components.
Other components are various oils, greasy substances and, in addition, emulsifying agents, which are responsible for continually mixing the basic components with the other additives and active agents in their individual quantities and compositions.


D

Day Cream
Most day creams are oil-in-water-emulsions. Day creams will provide care; they will refresh the skin, provide it with humidity, and protect it from environmental influences like air pollution, wind, and ultra-violet light.

High-quality creams often contain special active components (combinations of vitamins, minerals, trace elements, and aromatic oils) that have special supporting properties.

 

E

Emulsifying Agents
Water and oil will not mix naturally. Therefore, emulsifying agents are added in order to reduce the surface tension between the so-called water- and oil phases, which will then permit the lasting and even dispersion of the oily and watery components. This mixture will then generate an emulsion.

 


Emulsions
The products Creme 21 Skincare Creme, Body Milk, and Body Lotion are so-called oil-in-water-emulsions.
In the case of an emulsion, two non-mixing materials – or only partly mixing materials – are permanently mixed with each other by means of an emulsifier. In this process one of the mixing liquids (the "outer phase") will "enclose" the fine particles of the second liquid (the "inner phase").
Depending on the formulation of the respective emulsion the "nursing" effects will vary. We differentiate between oil-in-water emulsions (O/W) and water-in-oil emulsions (W/O). In the case of an oil-in-water emulsion the water represents the "outer phase". Emulsions of this type will provide a lot of humidity without any greasing effect. Water-in-oil emulsions work exactly the other way round. Here the oil represents the "outer phase" to provide the skin with a sufficient amount of grease and humidity.

 

 

G

Ginger-extract
Ginger extract has a stimulating and vitalising effect on the skin microcirculation.


Grape seed oil
Grape seed oil is particularly valuable, since pressing yield of small, hard grape seeds is very low. But for that grape seed oil acts on multiple ways: It is quickly absorbed by the skin and leaves a pleasant feeling on the skin. Due to the high levels of antioxidants, it protects against light-induced skin aging. The active ingredients Lecitihin and linoleic support the function of the skin barrier.

 

Glycerine
Glycerine is a trivalent, sweet-tasting alcohol that serves as a moisturizer in cosmetic products. It will provide the skin with humidity due to its capability of "attracting" water.

 


H

Honey-extract
Honey consists of about 200 different ingredients, including vitamins and minerals. Honey extract has anti-inflammatory, softens the skin, makes for a wonderful well-being and supports them effective in wound healing. So he clarifies your complexion with blemished skin and is even used successfully in the treatment of burns. Honey promotes a good and rapid healing.
Even Cleopatra had discovered the active power of honey for their flawless beauty: You bathed in donkey's milk with honey
.

 

 

J

Jojoba-oil
Jojoba oil is one of the best-known skin care products in the world. Jojoba oil contains valuable plant extracts, lipids and vitamin E for a soft supple skin. The classic among the skin care oils. Jojoba oil regulates the acid mantle and gives the skin the moisture it needs.

 

 

L

Lipids / Lipid components
These naturally existing grease-like components are used for the care of the face and body; they will keep the skin lithe and supple and will protect it from drying out.
 
Lipids will provide the skin with humidity, and smooth the skin texture.

 

 

M

Moisturizer
Moisturizers are capable of binding water and, thereby, providing humidity to the skin. At the same time they will protect cosmetic- and skincare products from drying up before time.

 
Menthol
Menthol is a component of peppermint oil. It has a cooling and refreshing. On the skin, it also has also a antipruriginous and bactericidal effect.

 

 

P

Panthenol (s. Pro-Vitamin B5)
In the skin, D-Panthenol becomes Pro-Vitamin B5 (Pantothenic Acid). It is capable of penetrating into the deeper layers of the skin in order to unfold its beneficial effect.
D-Panthenol serves as a moisturizer and increases the skin's capability of withholding the moisture. At the same time it has a soothing and analgetic effect as well as mitigating properties.

 


Parfum
Care products are endowed with a special, individual scent through perfuming agents. These agents must not impair the stability of the other substances contained, and they must be dermatologically harmless.

 


Pro-Vitamin B5 (s. Panthenol)
D-Panthenol is transformed in the skin and becomes Pro-Vitamin B5 (panthotenic acid). It is capable of penetrating the lower layers of the skin in order to develop its properties.
D-Panthenol serves as a moisturizer and improves the skin's property of withholding the moisture. At the same time it has a soothing effect on the skin and will prevent its inflammation and irritation.


Papaya Oil extract
Rich in free amino acids and enzymes; refreshes and invigorates the skin..

 

S

Silk protein
Silk protein is extracted from the cocoon of the silkworm. It has excellent properties of providing moisture and forming protective films. Silk protein provides care and protection, and gives a silky and soft feeling to the skin.

 

The Skin and its Structure
The skin is our largest organ. Did you know that the human skin measures more than 2 square metres?
Our skin is composed of three interconnected layers: The Epidermis, the Dermis, and the Subcutis.


The Epidermis is the uppermost, visible layer, which is in immediate contact with a human being's environment. It contains the following five layers starting from outside to the inside:
Layer of horny cells
Layer of lucid cells
Layer of granular cells
Layer of spiny cells
Layer of basal cells.

Due to the ongoing formation of basal cells the Epidermis is completely replaced every 28 days.
The epidermis is mainly responsible for the outer appearance of a human being. It is the only layer of our skin that may be influenced by cosmetic means.


The Horny Layer (also known as Dermis, Cutis, or Corneum) is the strongest of the three layers: It consists of connective tissue amply supplied with blood and pervaded by a network of nerve tracts. The horny layer provides the epidermis with nutrients and oxygen. The lower part of the horny layer accommodates the hair roots and the perspiratory glands.
 

The Subcutis serves as a kind of depot: In this layer grease reserves are stored that provide the body with energy and also with protecting warmth. In addition, the subcutaneous layer is pervaded by a dense network of nerve tracts, and it accommodates hair roots, respiratory glands, and also blood- and lymphatic vessels.

 

Funcionality of the Skin
The skin performs a large number of vital tasks. It is a sense organ that reacts to stimuli such as cold, warmth, and pain.
However, the skin also reflects perceptions - e.g. by blushing or showing goose flesh. Thus the skin also has an influence upon the impression that other human beings have of us.

The skin is something like our "natural buffer area" or the protective shield for our body. It will fend off mechanical influences such as pressure or friction, and also physical influences like cold, heat, and radiation. In all these processes the skin benefits from its capability of very quickly regenerating its texture in cases of minor injuries, of regulating the body temperature, and of absorbing ultra-violet radiation.

For example, the skin acts as a reservoir for grease, water, and also vitamins for the body to resort to in certain situations.

Furthermore, the skin will take over metabolic functions; and it will produce Vitamin D, an agent of vital importance for our bone structure.

 


Skin types

The choice of the appropriate personal hygiene mainly depends on the skin type, which essentially depends on the skin's production of sebum.

In the case of normal skin the production of sebum and, thereby, also the equilibrium of the grease- and humidity household is safeguarded. The skin shows a well balanced appearance, and it is even and smooth to the touch.

Dry skin does not produce sufficient sebum and, therefore, is incapable of binding humidity for any length of time. Such skin feels dry and flaking, and it causes a feeling of tension

 


Soap
Soap is one of the oldest helpers in the history of mankind's personal hygiene. In its solid and liquid forms it is mainly used for cleaning the hands.
The surface-active agents and fatty acids in the soap will reliably dissolve any kind of contamination.
These active cleansing agents will influence the pH-value of the skin: Due to these substances the pH-value is transferred into the alkaline range

 


Shea Butter
The oil from the seeds of the shea tree is particularly valuable. It is very rich in unsaturated fatty acids and unsaponifiables. The effect: Stressed skin with shea butter is soft and supple again and preserves the natural hydro-lipid balance..

 


T

Talcum
Talcum is a natural, very soft mineral. It is used by the pharmaceutical- and cosmetic-industry in the form of fine-grained powder and serves as a basis for cosmetic powders because of its capability of absorbing grease and humidity.

 

 

U

UV-Radiation
Our skin is subject to an increasing amount of UVA- and UVB-radiation.

UVB-Radiation will only penetrate the outer layers of the skin, where it may cause sunburns. The individual protection from UVB-radiation is indicated as the "light-protection-factor" on the respective package.

UVA-Radiation will penetrate into the deeper layers of the skin; it is invisible, it will not cause any pain, but it may cause long-term damages like an early aging of the skin, skin cancer, or even eye damages.

Sunscreen agents, therefore, must not only protect the skin from sunburn (UVB) but also from long-term damages through UVA-radiation. Through a well-balanced protection from UVA-/UVB-radiation, the protection from UVA-radiation will increase to the same extent as the protection from UVB-radiation. Products with a high sun-protection-factor will thus also provide considerable protection from UVA-radiation. And these capabilities are offered by all Creme 21-products for sun-protection.

 


V

Vitamin A
Beta Carotene is converted by the human organism into Vitamin A - also referred to as Retinol.

Human growth and the power of seeing are supported by Vitamin A. Vitamin A has a beneficial effect for the skin and the mucous membranes

In the field of cosmetics this vitamin is deployed as an efficient anti-wrinkle agent. It is capable of smoothing even the deeper wrinkles.

 


Vitamin C
Vitamin C – also referred to as Ascorbic Acid – is the "skin police". It acts as a catcher of the detrimental free radicals and, thereby, prevents the skin from ageing before time.

The main activities of Vitamin C are to take care of the metabolism of the connective tissue: Vitamin C supports the formation of collagen and, thereby, improves the elasticity of the skin.


 

Vitamin E

Vitamin E and its derivatives offer effective protection from free radicals, which are generated in the skin e.g. when it is exposed to ultraviolet radiation and may lead to irreparable damage to the cells.

In the field of cosmetics, Vitamin E has the following effects within and on the surface of the skin, it will:

  1. Improve the texture of the skin surface
  2. Increase the skin's ability to withhold humidity
  3. Speed up the formation of epithelium to heal surface lesions and to add a calming effect to cosmetics
  4. Activate the skin enzymes

 

 

Vitamins
Vitamins and their pre-stages (Pro-Vitamins) must be absorbed through with our food, because the human body is not capable of producing them.

If the human body is not sufficiently supplied with vital organic materials, deficiency symptoms may develop.

The vitamins A, -B, and -E are particularly important in the field of cosmetics. They will promote the generation of cells; they protect the skin from drying out, from damaging environmental influences, and from aging before time.